I want to create an editorial story that combines fashion with a feminist concept. Create high fashion images that suit the vintage style of my magazine and provide inspiration, but also portray the story of how the Hitchcock blonde was portrayed in the Alfred Hitchcock movies.
As part of the editorial story I will have an article discussing how the women suffer mercilessly at the hands of troubled men in his films. This article will explore the accusations of misogyny that haunted Hitchcock's career and explore the world of the Hitchcock femme fatale character in his movies.
Why he thought blonde actresses made the best victims in his movies and how feminists saw it as a negative portrayal of women.
From the Pechkucha presentation feedback, I've learnt from my tutors and peers that this concept is ideal and interesting for my magazine, but will need to develop it further. Hence why I've decided to accompany my images with an feminist article piece.
To get accurate research for this editorial story, I will be using primary and secondary sources from his movies, and use the books 'The Women Who Knew Too Much: Hitchcock and Feminist Theory' and 'Laura Mulvey: Visual Pleasure and Narrative Cinema' to provide theory to my article. I'll be looking at his movies and the portrayal of women in a feminist point of view.
Definition of the 'Hitchcock Blonde'
-The Hitchcock Blonde, is a beautiful, sophisticated,
poised woman who carries with her an air of mystery and indirect sex appeal.
She carries the film as an unexpected source of duplicity, and can be a cunning
and intelligent adversary.
This definition of the Hitchcock blonde gives me as starting point as to how I will represent this character in my images. I want to empower her with sophisticated styling, make-up, and hair. But through poses, props, and photography I want to portray the concept of her being 'on edge', 'devious' and 'in trouble' similar to the position of women in his movies. Capturing a narrative that she is in a dark thriller and in the hands of troubled men.
For inspiration I watched Alfred Hitchcock movies to study the way the blonde actresses were portrayed through their character, role and how much power they holds. Their intimate and dangerous relationships with men, the styling, and overall cinematic imagery.
Psycho 1960
Thriller and Horror in a Film Noir genre
Dramatic German Expressionist-style shadows that create dark, murky atmosphere.
Strong aspect of film is the feisty, sexually charged femme fatale
Janet Leigh who plays Marion Crane is the leading female character who holds sophisticated sex appeal but has troubled face expressions and Alfred focuses on this using the film noir lighting on her face.
The femme fatale character is an instigator for trouble and bringer of bad luck and receives mental and physical punishment. She is killed off by psychologically tormented Norman Bates because of her promiscuity and criminal behaviour. Her underwear turns from white to black when she steals money. Suggesting she is a devious, sexually charged character that soon gets her comeuppance by a man- this is where I can see why feminists thought Hitchcock was a misogynist.
The overall fashion style is 50s but enters into the 60s era.
Birds 1963
Thriller/Horror genre
Tippie Hedren plays the blonde heroine Melanie Daniels who faces a punishment in the form of a bird attack by crazed black birds. A film that reveals what increasingly seems to be a bitter Hitchcock. The film uses similar lighting to focus on the drama and mood and fear in the actress face. Emphasising on the idea that she is in a murky world and victim of punishment.
The styling of the blonde actress is very similar to the styling n Psycho. It represents early 60s fashion but holds again sophisticated sex appeal but more glamorous with more fur and pearls.
The Hitchcock iconic icy blonde actress was an important element in his films, as it was the source of aesthetic pleasure and a victim of 'fetishistic' torture and punishments. The use of blonde hair in his movies and the way he portrayed his favourite blondes as the feared woman has led to a negative portrayal of women as sex objects. The idea that they were used to be looked at. Was the use of the untamed 'blonde seductress' a warning to women that their promiscuous ways and strong sexuality wont end well for them? Were his representations of women a simply reflection of the society and fears of that time?
Source: The Women Who Knew Too Much: Hitchcock and Feminist Theory by Tania Modleski (Routledge, NY, 1989)
'HITCHCOCK HEROINE'
Editorial overall inspiration moodboard
Another element I find inspiring from Hitchcock movies, is the use of telephones. Especially in movie Dial M for Murder staring Grace Kelly, Hitchcock's favourite blonde. I intend on using a retro telephone as a prop for the model to pose with to help create a thriller narrative in the images and emphasis the Hitchcock influence on the women. Viewing the aesthetics and scenes from this movie will help me inspire my images and model, but also use as a reference to support my feminist point of view in my article piece.
Dial M for Murder 1954
MAKE-UP & HAIR
The model has to be blonde and have a Grace Kelly look to her features for me to fully re-create the famous and controversial Hitchcock blonde icon. The hair will be feminine and emulate the late 50s to early 60s style with smooth hollywood waves or a neat up-do similar to Tippie Hedern in Birds. It will be modernised and be bold to empower her character as the femme fatale. I intend to have a more avant-garde edge and daring look that represents the characters more devious and troubled side. Representing the narrative that she is in the hands of troubled men and bad luck is coming her way. Showcasing the murky world of the blonde femme fatale through the drama of the eye make-up and hair.
PHOTOGRAPHY
I want a film noir essence to my images. Taking inspiration from the Alfred Hitchcock cinematic style where he uses strong lighting to highlight and focus on the subject which is the icy blonde actress. Inspired to create images that have a dark thriller atmosphere by using a film noir approach to composition and lighting. It will be shot in the photography studios to experiment with lighting.
For poses and photography I'm inspired by Laurie Bartley. A photographer who uses influences of film noir style and lighting to create mood and atmosphere in her contemporary imagery.
Her collection 'Ballerina' and 'Mind over Matter' inspire the lighting and composition for my own images. I intend to recreate this type of lighting to emphasis the mood of my models and the character they will be portraying in a dark and msyterious world of Hitchcock's thrillers.
'Ballerina'
'Mind over matter'
Styling Inspiration
The Hitchcock Blonde appeared in his movies throughout the 50s and 60s. In my editorial, there will be an inspiration from 50s fashion and 60s fashion. My main focus for styling inspiration will be from the Birds and Psycho movie, but also Dial M for Murder for further inspiration for prop use, mood and posing.
I've been looking at contemporary fashion editorials that are inspired by the Hitchcock blonde, to help me with styling these eras.
MARTYNA FRANKOW STARS IN HITCHCOCK INSPIRED SPREAD FOR MODERN MEDIA BY STOCKTON JOHNSON, 2013
I'm inspired by the lighting and poses from this editorial. It really captures the horror and thriller atmosphere in his movies that the blonde actresses experienced. It tells the story of the Hitchcock blonde and her role in the movies well, which I intend to do in my images. The photography is similar to the style of my photographic inspiration which was photographer Laurie Bartley.
Styling - Vintage inspired A-line dresses and heavy coats to ward off the chills that could have easily come from Hitch’s regular costume designer, Edith Head.
Vogue China - Hitchcock blonde editorial
The Team:
Creative Director/stylist: Grace Parris
Photographer: Maarit Hirvelaan
Make-up Artist: Lucy Bowler
Hair-stylist: Anna Lenton
Location: Solent Photography Studios
Date: March 20th or 21st
Outcome of Photo-shoot
Today, a week before the photoshoot, I spent 8 hours sourcing clothes and organising 3 key looks. I've given myself plenty of time to source the props and clothing before the shoot. I found it challenging because there isn't many early 60s inspired clothing in the shops or online. I was loosing inspiration and my moodboards weren't helping in achieving the ideal looks I intend to create. For the styling, I intend to reflect a true Hitchcock Heroine from his movies, but interpret it in my own individual way. I turned to a fellow fashion styling student for help in sourcing clothing. She informed me of the university styling cupboard which provided me with more styling inspiration. The online look-book of the styling cupboard had vintage pieces that I could borrow and integrate into my own pieces. I've learnt that online and shops don't always have the right clothing source that i need to complete a task, I can be inspired by second hand clothes which are more unique and create more innovative outfits. I finished today, managing to complete 3 key looks, which I am happy with and meets my brief for the shoot concept.
#Initiative & Independent Learning
Reflecting on experience of this shoot:
Today, I spent 6 hours in total on this photoshoot with my team. Overall, it did run smoothly and everyone was scheduled on time and we managed to shoot all outfits. However we did encounter a few issues. Ideally I would of preferred the make-up and hair stylists to stay during the shoot, in case of a make-up top up or a hair change. They informed me before the shoot, that they were free for the whole day but instead they insisted they had to be somewhere else on the day. So it was left to me, the photographer and model. I was pleased with the make up and hair, although the hair didn't fit my mood board brief entirely, and in the images it looked too dated and old fashioned. The hair styling didn't compliment the outfits or the model very well either. To overcome this issue, me and the photographer worked together to improve the overall looks and let the hair down. This solved this issue to an extent as the model no longer looked old fashioned in the images and it gave the looks a more youthful appearance. However, without a hair kit or any hair styling skills the hair didn't look smooth or neat when down in the images. So I feel this caused the images to be of less quality and look slightly amateur to me.
#Devise innovative and Appropriate solutions to a problem or a brief #Initiative & Independent Learning
What went well was the make-up. It met the concept brief and complimented the film noir style images perfectly as the green eye make-up enhanced the troubled look in the models eyes and poses.
Another problem that we encountered during the shoot was Photography. It took a while to correct the lighting, and we found it challenging to create the film noir aesthetic without the images being too dark and gloomy. However, with Chris Overhand (professional) available in the studio, we got assistance to achieving the film noir lighting. With his expertise we were able to create the ideal imagery we wanted and the outcome of the photography was of high quality and met my moodboard brief. Together with my photographer and Chris Overhand expertise, I've learnt new techniques and skills in photography that I never thought I would be capable of achieving. The real satisfaction when finishing the shoot was a great feeling, and I am very excited to see the images retouched and printed in the final magazine. I'm hoping for the images to be integrated within the article, but also spreaded onto a whole A4 page for maximum impact to the editorial feature.
#Initiative & Independent Learning
Backstage Photos
Edited Results
These are the final edited and retouched images I will be using in my magazine feature. In my estimation the overall shoot was successful because the final images depict the film noir style and capture the thriller mood of the Hitchcock movies I researched and studied.
The close up shots work better than the long distance shots as they are more dramatic and emphasize the character the model is portraying. They highlight the trouble blonde heroine in the image that I intended to create. Although, the poses could be stronger in my opinion as the model was shy at first but she soon felt comfortable after an hour.
The posing captures a mixture of emotions the blonde female roles experience in the movies. She looks strong and empowering and almost cunning in the red 'power' dress, but also looks on edge, troubled and scared in the close up images with the props. I reference the movie Dial M for Murder well in this. I believe I have referenced a feminist theory in my images with the styling as the model is capturing the strength of the blonde women in Hitchcock movies and highlighting the troubles they dealt with caused by men in a patriarchal society. I'm also engaging in a dialogue with the work of Hitchcock through the work that I've produced. As my styling depicts the sophisticated and feminine appearance of the blonde heroine that Hitchcock intended to represent in his movies. #Understanding trends and styling conventions
It was important to have the styling similar to the styling in the movies so I could clearly demonstrate the female character. Which was very appropriate to do in order to create images that complimented the article piece topic and the subject matter. Although the images I don't consider are cutting edge, but I do feel the whole concept behind them and the narrative and theory that they referred to is innovative.
#Appropriate materials and production processes
I believe the outcome of this shoot is innovative and compared to other peoples work who have interpreted the Hitchcock blonde. Mine is interpreted differently with not as many props used, or backdrops like the work of Stockton Johnson in Modern Media.
To ensure that this outcome is suited to my magazine style, ethos and target audience. I plan to conduct a focus group for feedback before layout and printing to get valuable opinions from readership. This is an appropriate solution to any problems with the relationship between my work and my target audience.
However, I have received feedback from an industry professional, who deals with fashion images.
Bryony Garbett, an Oasis head office contact of mine and Head of E-commerce thought "that the concept idea would be fitting for my target audience and suits the vintage style of magazine. It will intrigue the readership and the final images depict that Hitchcock heroine very well. The only criticism is the poses. Wish them to be stronger and more empowering to emphasis my feminism ideas"
#Devise innovative and Appropriate solutions to a problem or a brief
Overall, I have been professional in organising myself and others for the process of this concept as I ensured I had a blonde model first, so I could have plenty of time to organise the clothing to her sizing before the shoot. Also send her portfolio to the team to let them know who they will be working with so they can prep their looks before the day. I undertook more production tasks than anticipated during this shoot as I had to do a hair and make-up change myself, which I've done previously in last projects, but not my strength and wasn't prepared for that task. Next time I will bring my hair kit just in case I need to do a hair change myself. I've learnt and understand that professional expectations as the creative director of this shoot means making sure everything flows well, and that I have back up solutions to prevent any issues.
#Good working practices
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